Tutorial-Greenstyle Brassie Jogger Shorts with a Foldover Yoga Waistband

Posted by Joni Pearce on

This is such a simple modification, but I love the end result.  My closet is going to be filled with these for the summer!  If you haven't grabbed the Greenstyle Brassie Jogger Pattern, you can do that here.

 

Begin with the original Brassie Jogger pattern pieces.  Use the MID-RISE option!  You will be folding the waistband down, so it will fit more like a low rise.  

**The foldover yoga waistband modification could also just as easily be used on the capri or regular length Brassie Joggers.  

 **When I make Brassie Jogger pants, I use the low rise option, but when making the foldover waist shorts, I use the mid-rise. 

On the floral pair, I used the original "shorts" cut line.  On the solid pair, I cut 1.5 inches above the shorts line.  

I prefer to widen the leg a bit (definitely wouldn't need to, just a personal preference).  I do this by cutting my fabric straight down on the inner leg (front and back piece) instead of angling in.  I leave the outer leg seam unchanged.  

 

Below, are some pictures of how I do a reverse coverstitch on the pockets.  I love this detail.  If you have a coverstitch machine and haven't tried this, you must!  And if you do not have a coverstitch machine, don't fret!  Your sewing machine with a lengthened straight stitch (or a fancy decorative stitch if you're feeling wild and crazy!) is just fine.

 

I LOVE to use knit stay tape when I need extra stability with my knits.  I get it from here

 

Fold to the wrong side, pin, and then using my coverstitch machine, I stitch on the wrong side of the fabric. 

 

 

I also use the reverse coverstitch to sew my pocket on.  

 

Constructing the FOLD OVER YOGA Waistband:

I used the size small Brassie Jogger pieces and my waistband piece was 10 inches (length) X 27 inches (width) . 

My low waist measurement (where the shorts will sit) is 29 inches.  I took two inches off that measurement and made my waistband piece 27 inches wide and then 10 inches tall.  I don't like my waist very tight, so you may have to adjust the width measurement to your liking.  The stretch of the knit fabric will be going horizontal, across the 27 inches.  I used a 95/5 cotton lycra for my waistband.  You can use whatever you prefer, but make sure it has good stretch AND good recovery.  If it stretches, but doesn't recover...... you may have a problem later on in the day:)  

Once you have your waistband piece cut, place your short ends together (right sides touching) and sew/serge with a 3/8 inch seam allowance.  Now, fold your fabric (now a tube) so your raw edges are together and the wrong side of the fabric is touching.  You will now have a tube of sorts with the seam enclosed.  Mark your waistband into fourths with pins.  Your four marks on the shorts will be the seams, but you can double check that they are equal fourths.  

As you can see from the picture, your waistband will be significantly smaller than the shorts.  That is OK! (If looking at this picture, flip the waistband over so the raw edges are on top.)  Then slide it over the shorts. Stretching the waistband, pin it to the shorts, matching up the fourths marks, raw edges together.  The seam of the waistband should be at the back of the shorts.  Sew/serge the waistband to the shorts with a 3/8 inch seam allowance. 

I used French Terry (with rayon content) for my shorts.  With French Terry I like the rolled look at the bottom.  To get this, I leave the hem raw and just fold the edge up about 1/2 to 3/4 inch (right sides touching) .  I then tack with my sewing machine at the seams, inner and outer leg. Some additional options would be to do a regular hem, serge the raw edge, or to just leave raw.

That's it!!  You now have a super comfy pair of shorts! And BONUS, this will work great as a maternity mod if you're needing a comfy pair of pants that still look put together! 

Brassie Joggers Brassie Shorts Foldover Waistband Greenstyle Creations Maternity Modification pdf pattern Women's Pattern women's pdf pattern Yoga Waistband

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